If you are visiting Verona, you will undoubtedly be struck by a majestic castle in the heart of the city, just a few steps from the Arena. It is Castelvecchio, built by the della Scala family in the mid-1300s, and one of the most representative monuments of the city. Furthermore, this ancient building houses one of the most important museums in Verona, also known for its renovation by Carlo Scarpa, one of the most important architects of the twentieth century. In the museum you can admire collections of medieval, Renaissance and modern art following various historical and artistic routes. If you are interested in the history of the city and ancient art, a visit to this wonderful museum is a definite must.

Initially, this fortress was called Castello di San Martino in Acquaro, due to the small church that was there previously, and which was later incorporated into the building. It only took the name of “Castelvecchio” after the Visconti family built the “new” castle on the hill of San Pietro in 1398. As previously mentioned, Castelvecchio was built in 1300 by Cangrande II della Scala for defensive purposes. In fact, during that period the Signoria was already in decline and many surrounding cities were expanding territorially, such as Venice, Milan and Mantua. For this reason the castle was equipped with sturdy walls, surrounded by a moat with a drawbridge and crenellated towers, which would have ensured a solid defence in case of attack. After the Scaligeri fled to Bavaria, the castle was used as a military fortress by the Visconti and by the Venetians who reigned over Verona in the years to come. Napoleon also used Castelvecchio as the headquarters for his army, and to adapt the surrounding buildings to his military needs he destroyed various buildings, including the Arco dei Gavi, a Roman monument from the 1st century AD. It was later renovated and placed next to the Castle. The Austrians also continued to use it as a military fortress and as a depot for weapons, and it also became the seat for a military tribunal.

Towards the end of the Second World War it was destroyed by the Germans in 1945, who bombed all the bridges in the city. Restoration of the castle was entrusted to Carlo Scarpa in 1957, who sought to keep the original appearance, removing all the additions that had been made over the centuries. This was considered his best work, as it made the castle a suitable place both to be visited and as an exhibition site.

He is credited with the idea of creating a unitary museum path, with a number of interruptions that lead to the outside, using ancient and modern materials, such as wood, stone and concrete, for the restoration.

The castle is divided into two parts: on one side there was the residence of the Scaligeri, protected by a courtyard and double walls, on the other a courtyard containing a fountain in the shape of a dog, the symbol of the della Scala family.

Noteworthy is the bridge that crosses the Adige river, known as the Ponte di Castelvecchio or Ponte Scaligero, celebrated by historians as one of the most daring and wonderful works of the Middle Ages.

It is a bridge with three arches, equipped with Ghibelline battlements in the shape of a dovetail, which originates from the tower of the Mastio in the centre of the castle and which was built between 1354 and 1356. Mainly composed of terracotta bricks and white local stones, it provides a very scenographic effect, thanks to the play of chiaroscuro. In 1945, at the end of the war, it was blown up by the Germans together with the other Veronese bridges, but it was faithfully rebuilt by recovering original stones and bricks.

The visit to Castelvecchio starts from the ground floor, where there is a rich display of Lombard jewelry as well as Veronese sculptures from the late Middle Ages. Three of the rooms are completely dedicated to the sculpture of the fourteenth century, among which it is possible to admire various statues in tuff found in a number of churches of the city. After passing through the last room, which contains sculptures of the fifteenth century, the path continues briefly to the outside where you can see the fourteenth-century bell that previously occupied the Gardello tower.

Going upstairs, you reach what was the old residential floor of the castle. Here you can admire various jewels found in Veronetta, and probably forming part of the Scaligero treasure, as well as everyday objects, found in the tomb of Cangrande, including his sword which is exhibited in an illuminated display case. An important part is constituted by the picture gallery, rich in Gothic paintings and murals removed from buildings and churches, belonging to the various Veronese schools. The most important work that can be found inside the museum is the Madonna della Quaglia, by Pisanello.

Halfway between International Gothic style, Byzantine art and Renaissance painting, this painting has a half-gold, half-realistic background, depicting a rose garden. Here sits the Madonna, depicted very realistically, with the Child in her arms. Proceeding with the visit you can admire Renaissance works created by painters such as Bellini, Crivelli and Mantegna. It was the latter who promoted the Renaissance revolution in Verona. He was the author of the Altarpiece of San Zeno, one of the works that most inspired future painters. Leaving the Palace, you enter the tower of the keep, which connects the two wings of the castle, where you can admire a small collection of swords and armour, horse harnesses and other bronze objects, found in a number of Lombard tombs found in the Verona area.  The second floor hosts paintings dating back to a period ranging from the sixteenth to the eighteenth century. Here there are works by Girolamo dai Libri, Francesco Caroto, Paolo Veronese and Alessandro Turchi. Among the most important works are the Nativity with the Saints John the Baptist and Jerome and the Madonna with Child and the Saints Peter and Andrew, by Girolamo dai Libri; the Portrait of a Nun by Marcantonio Bassetti; the Flagellation by Alessandro Turchi, to name just a few. The exhibition ends with a room dedicated to Venetian painting of the eighteenth century, which mainly represents sacred and mythological subjects, portraits and landscapes for altarpieces.

One of the most exciting highlights of the visit is the opportunity to walk on the patrol walkways, among battlements, towers and a hanging garden. Here you will have the opportunity to admire the castle from a very different perspective where you can imagine how this building must have been at the time of its construction. Descending from the walkways you will come across the statue of Cangrande, depicted on the back of his steed with sword drawn and helmet slung over his back. The broad smile conveys the good and generous soul of the most beloved della Scala lords. This statue was originally located above the monumental tomb of Cangrande, at the Scaliger Archese, but was moved here to protect it from the weather. Its replica is currently located at the Scaliger Arches.